The Jugged Hare, 49 Chiswell St. London

The Jugged Hare, just off Barbican square, is showing the rest of London how to 'do' wild game. It is not just the style with which they pull off their breath-taking combination of old and new themed recipes, it is the beautiful interior that really stands strong in most minds. However seeing that taxidermy is my second passion, it does not take many stuffed animals to impress me, let alone what must be over 100.

We were invited there to celebrate the forth coming game season and to witness first-hand what the Jugged Hare has in store for it. When I managed to peel my eyes of the gorgeous art work the serious work began of trying out some of the creations their chefs have designed since opening last year. To get the taste buds flowing and the brain in the right frame it was a delicious sloe gin cocktail which set the tone for the evening and even before we were welcomed by our hosts we had fried grouse legs with bread sauce thrust upon us. For those in the know (The Jugged Hare being one of them), cooking the legs separately from the breasts can give you added freedom with flavour and texture (see the recipe below). This is especially important with Grouse, who love a good run about on the moor. An excellent bar snack it was and a great start to the evening.

Next up was the other part of the grouse, the breast. This time around they dived straight into the fast food realm. I can safely say I have never had grouse burgers before and will probably never be served them again! But this once in a life time treat was a close to perfection as I have ever tasted. The grouse burgers were accompanied by grouse liver pate and red currant jelly. I am just about getting the hang of this critic-ing but when I say that was one hell of a succulent burger, I mean it. I spent the evening puzzling over how they made what we usually describe as the driest and toughest of meats, so damn juicy and tender.

However the pièce de résistance was the name-saked jugged hare taster. They succeeded in turning slow cooked hare from a lean dark meat to a delicious and light dish. Sadly the only thing that has changed since the recipe was created in the 17^th century is its popularity. However, this cannot be put down to the restaurant industries lack of trying but the animal itself facing a decline unknown to any other British mammal. Now they are on the rise again this truly wild animal is appearing back on our menus and at the Jugged Hare this signature dish is flying.

Throughout the season they will be putting on further events. One such event is BYOB – but not as you know it – this time around it is standing for Bring Your Own Brace. For if you bring the chefs your own brace of birds (plucked and dressed) they will cook it up the way you want.

All in all, this restaurant is showing the others how to cook game, mixing old with new and always updating its menu with what is in season. I am certainly excited to visit a couple more times over the winter to see how the menu adapts.



The Jugged Hare Fried Grouse Legs –

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

20 grouse legs

100g potato starch

100g corn flour

1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon paprika

Salt and pepper

2ltrs duck fat

FOR THE BREAD SAUCE

1 pint skimmed milk

1 onion

2 cloves

1 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons chilli flakes

500g breadcrumbs

METHOD

Firstly trim the grouse legs of any excess fat or gristle and place in a shallow pan and cover with duck fat.

Heat slowly and keep the heat below 65 degrees, cooking for 90 minutes until the legs are soft to touch and fall apart.

Drain the fat (this can be kept for use another day) and allow to cool until firm.

To make the bread sauce, place the milk, peeled onion, cloves, cinnamon and chilli in a pan and heat gently to infuse flavour for 20mins.

Strain the infused milk and return to the pan, add the breadcrumbs, a handful at a time, and cook out slightly until the desired consistency is achieved. Correct seasoning and

Finish with a splash of double cream to give a silky texture.

TO SERVE

Mix the potato starch, corn flour, cayenne, paprika and seasoning in a bowl. Take the cooked legs and dip into a little milk then into the flour mix and the deep fry until golden brown.

Dry any excess oil with a piece of kitchen cloth and serve with a dip of the spiced bread sauce.